Momo Corse Model 80 Steering Wheel & 4916 Hub Adapter:

Easy hub and wheel install, SRS was an experience, fabricated wiring harness was a pain in the ass, great results. LTB Motorsport had great recommendations and did some research for me to find the right hub adapter. Buy the Momo parts from them. The wheel was $197.95, the hub was $48 + $12 shipping to Minneapolis.

After looking at the service manual and reviewing the wiring diagrams, I set off to remove the SRS air bag and factory wheel. Taking off the access cover on the lower left side of the wheel reveals the wiring hookup for the air bag and a little jumper to put on the air bag connector once it's removed. I treated that thing like a bomb, which it is. It went very smoothly. I wrapped the airbag in an anti-static bag and packed it face up in a cardboard box and taped it shut. Static electricity can set it off, so BE CAREFUL!!!

Removing the factory wheel is cake, just undo the big center nut and it pulls off. You use this nut to mount the new wheel.

The factory wire reel also had to come out, so you need to do some creative wiring to have the left button be horn/nitrous and the right be cruise set. I left enough slack to allow the wheel to do it's full rotations, and wrapped the wires in that slippery plastic "snake skin" cover.

The SRS light on the dash stays on with the air bag removed, so you need to jumper the pins on the yellow 6-pin connector under the steering column to fake the system into thinking it's still there. So the connector, with the 3 little bumps facing down, numbered left to right is as follows: 1,3: Momentary switch to resume set. 1,2: Momentary switch to set cruise. 4,6: Jumper to placate SRS system and shut off dumby light. The horn is activated by a momentary switch from pin 1 (technically common) to ground at the wheel. I used 18 AWG stranded wire in white, black and red.

Here's a diagram that spells it all out:

You need 3 wires (common, cruise set, cruise resume) from the connector under steering to the wheel. I only hooked up the cruise set (right) button and the Horn/NOS (left) button though I did run all three wires up to the wheel in case I want to add it later. I pulled some 5/8" long straight copper pins from a old connector I had laying around and soldered them onto each of the wires, finishing them off with a little shrink tube. Once in the slot holes they make good contact, but they don't stay in very well. I looped the three wires back around and wire tied them to the factory wiring harness so the pins are held in place and there is "pull protection".

Slide about 24" of snake skin wire loom over them, and up into the steering hub. Add a spade connector to each of the wires and crimp on the appropriate end for each button and the horn ground. Do this so the wheel is removable if need be.

I added another couple wire ties to make sure the connectors wouldn't get tugged on by the rotating steering shaft. If the wires do snag on something while you are turning the wheel they will be ripped out of either the connector end or the steering wheel end. Be mindful of how you route the wires! I made sure there were no places the wires could get caught inside the column covers by making some small posts and screwing them into the holes for the factory reel loom. Works like a champ.

The wheel is excellent, with much better feel, and you can really tell that there is less rotating mass while high speed turning. Far more comfortable than the factory wheel. Get the suede leather, not the shiny leather option. Makes all the difference in the world.